Monday, June 06, 2022

[Travel] Back to the Island

I can't remember the first time I visited Mackinac Island.  Likely shortly before the turn of the century.   It is utterly timeless.  Oh, a restaurant or two has been replaced.  We went from three ferry lines to two.  They upgraded the pool at the Grand Hotel.  The biggest change I can think of in the last 20 years has been the addition of one new hotel.  And yet, though I have traipsed all over the island I often stumble on things I have not encountered before: a trail on the bluff, a hidden view of the lake, a new microbrew.

I often visit the island for a race and this trip was no exception.  The Fort2Fort Five Mile Run is run in early-mid May, before Memorial Day, and before the island gets crazy busy, which it will be from Memorial Day through Labor Day, and only slightly less busy through Halloween.  This early in the season, some of the businesses are just starting to open and finding their way, but the workers who will be worn and jaded by the end of season are fresh and bright.


I do recommend the race if you are a runner.  Of the four races held each year on the island, this is the shortest.  It passes quite a few of the key landmarks on the interior of the island and is walker friendly so if you want to just use it as an excuse for a walking tour you can. It's net uphill for the first 3.5 miles to the highest point on the island, then a sweet downhill to the finish.  It's also the newest race having been inaugurated in 2019 (I think).  I believe I have done every one of them.


The place I used to go all the time was Las Vegas.  I visited at least once a year for probably 15 years.  I knew what to do and where to go and it made for some great vacations. Personal circumstances and the pandemic have conspired to keep me from Vegas for nearly 5 years. I fear I may be a bit of a stranger when I do get back.  It seems Mackinac Island has stepped up in its place.  I know the island very well.  I know what to do and where to go. Perhaps it makes sense for a man of my years to downshift from Vegas glitz to the Mackinac pastoral vibe.  Or I could be making a lot more of this than I should.


I do think Mackinac Island is worth visiting for just about everyone.  For those of us in the Midwest, it's a great road trip.  For others I would recommend it as a two or three night segment of a larger Great Lakes vacation.  The areas surrounding the northern parts of Lake Huron and Lake Michigan are about as perfect a place for a summer getaway as you can imagine.  I guess you could call it Summertime Lake Culture.  I know when I finally move down south, I will turn backflips to spend time back in Michigan when the mercury rises.


But, Mackinac Island is truly timeless.  The famous Grand Hotel may have added a water park, but you still have to be in coat-and-tie for dinner.  Brewpubs may have replaced homestyle cooking, but folks still gather and socialize in the bars.  E-bikes are (controversially) banned and the dominant sound is still the clip-clop of horses. The waterfront streets are ever more crowded, but the interior trails are quiet and calm.  Cruise ships visit more often, but they still fire off the fort cannon and play taps at sunset. Tulips and Lilacs still bloom in the spring.


One of these days I shall rent a house on the lisand for a full month. I'll get one with plenty of bedrooms.  Then all my friends can come and visit.  One day.