Since I'm on a kick of passing judgment on various regions, let's do New Orleans. I'm going to say something that may raise hackles. Post-Katrina New Orleans is better than Pre-Katrina New Orleans. There I said it. I'm sure the devastation and struggle caused by Katrina were horrible, but it also washed away much of the creeping ugliness that was growing in New Orleans once you left the French Quarter. Bourbon Street was always a blast, but the smell was frightening. Between the Katrina power-washing and the new sewer upgrades, it's set for another century of debauchery.
Some may see the same gentrification that's going on throughout the country, but it has a very different feel to me. With garden-variety gentrification real estate gets a renovation and prices rise and the new money comes in and works hard to gate themselves off from the very diversity they praise (see previous post re: the Bay Area). In Nawlins, you aren't gated off from anything. You have chase the junkies out of the doorway of your seven figure condo. You may be part of the gentry, but you are bumpin' elbows with a bouillabaisse of humanity.
That said, the money part of the gentrification equation is still in tact -- in real estate, of course, but other things too. Get caught needing to Uber to the airport during surge pricing and you could be dropping $70-80. That's pushing Manhattan level. Trying to find even a nothing-special hotel room near the Quarter for sub-$300 a night is a problem -- and tack on an extra hundred per night for taxes and valet parking. Yeah, New Orleans is definitely not a budget destination.
Crime is broadly down in the city as you'd expect from the gentry -- excluding the worst areas where nothing changes and nobody goes -- but the city hasn't lost its soul. It's still one of the friendliest places you can visit; folks are quick to laugh and offer good thoughts. The Quarter is still a party. The Central Business District is getting to be very nice.
And then there is food. You could spend a lifetime exploring food in New Orleans. I will admit I don't have the greatest affiliation to Bayou cuisine. For example, many people have deep and fervent opinions about po' boys. I think a po boy is, essentially, a bad sub. A muffuletta is better, but so many places drown it in olives. A beignet is fine but nothing more than a donut to me. I like jambalaya and etouffee, but not to die for.
Still, the culture of cooking yields all sorts of gems. For brunch at the Court of Two Sisters I had an omelet that was flawless -- no strange ingredients, just loaded with veggies like I usually get, but perfectly cooked and served in a wonderful setting. At Mother's I had fabulous green beans and cheese grits for the side dishes. Unexpectedly wonderful baked ham at both places. Souffle potatoes at Antoine's were another great find. Cocktail culture is second to none.
So have a seat at the bar order something tasty and a sazerac to start. You'll find the folks on either side of you are your new BFFs. Cheer on the Saints, even if you're not a fan. Let the good times roll in the Big Easy. The sticker shock will be worth it.
